Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
